Крепость Дьенкхань

Dien Khanh citadel lies about ten kilometres west of central Nha Trang. Closer than most day trips people take. The heritage plaque on site is specific: built by the Nguyen lords in 1793, laid out on the French Vauban military plan, and listed as a national historical monument in 1988.

The same plaque gives something more interesting than the date: this was the administrative, political, economic and cultural centre of Khanh Hoa province from 1802 until early 1945. For more than 140 years, in other words, the provincial capital was not Nha Trang but here.

What remains is a handful of red-brick gates with towers above them and stretches of earthen wall. What makes it different from a fenced-off site: the road still runs through the gate, motorbikes filing under the arch all day. This is a monument still in use, not an exhibit.

It pairs with the twin dau tree and the Trinh Phong shrine nearby, and with Nha Trang Xua. All three lie west of the city. Equally, skip it if you have half a day and have not yet seen Po Nagar: this is for visitors who have already done the obvious round.

On the same trip: Suối Đổ nearby, and Ninh Hoà if you carry on north.