Nha Trang Xua

Nha Trang Xua sits in hamlet 3, Thai Thong, in Vinh Thai. About fifteen minutes west of the centre, which means you go there deliberately rather than passing by. It is a Vietnamese village rebuilt: two old three-bay houses under yin-yang tiles, a brick courtyard, thatched pavilions, two lotus ponds and a collection of old farm tools.

What puts it under experiences rather than food is the craft village: mat weaving, bronze casting and conical-hat making are done on site for visitors to watch and try. There is a cooking class too: pick herbs in the garden, cycle to the market, then cook a few Vietnamese dishes with a chef, from around 1,150,000₫ a head, with a souvenir to take home.

The eating side is country cooking served on a tray: a rustic buffet, set meals for groups, and folk cakes. À la carte prices run wide, roughly 35,000–495,000₫ depending on the dish, so the bill depends entirely on whether you order a set or individual plates. Ask for the per-head price before you sit down if you are a group.

It suits two kinds of visitor: families with small children, who get room to run, a lotus pond and crafts to watch; and rough-sea days when the island tours are all cancelled. This is inland and largely under cover. It does not suit anyone wanting a quick meal: the whole place is built for you to stay an hour or two.

In the same group of wet-day options: the Oceanographic Institute and the Yersin museum.