Travelling solo

Small hotels and hostels from 200,000₫, three minutes' walk from the sand

Small batter cakes fired in clay moulds, dipped in fermented sauce or pork broth

One of the busiest fish noodle shops in Nha Trang

Plastic stools, a dripping phin, 20,000₫. How locals actually drink coffee

The cheapest way onto the bay. Shared boat, lunch aboard, a full day

14 Hung Vuong in the backpacker quarter. Food the moment you step out

Skewers, grilled rice paper, rice-paper salad. 3,000₫ to 25,000₫ a piece

17 Thai Nguyen. A French-era station in the middle of town, to photograph and to use

Thirty places with a posted board and daytime hours: recliners in the quarter, garden spas, saunas

Seven dive centres, most of them in the tourist quarter: which agency, which boat, which number

Seven shops, which deliver to your hotel, and what to check before you take the keys